The Hawaii noodles and soup, Saimin, is a comfort food that has a light broth that is fairly clear with minimal cloudiness and an array of toppings. With its history from the plantation and immigrant families who shared what they could to the bowl of soup made what we know today as Saimin, which was once a necessity for food to a preference that brings the feelings of home. In its process the saimin noodles are boiled in a pot and placed inside noodle holders. On the side there will be another pot that has the broth that would simmer away and not boiled for a stronger sort of dashi which is the older way. At the end there will be an addition of a flavoring the is mixed in the broth before serving or left plain and then it is garnished with ordered toppings that are tossed on top and placed carefully. Value in its Sizes It has always been famed for its large amounts of noodles and if a person was hungry they could add on many toppings to make for a delightful meal. It was known to be affordable in price range compared to the volume of food which would make it a good value. People could go and get saimin without a second thought as it wouldn't break the bank. Saimin had nicknames for each of its sizes: Small Saimin (Small-size), Regular Saimin (Medium-size), Large Saimin (Large-size), Sumo Saimin (Ex-Large size), Family Saimin Pot (Family Size Takeout). Origins of Saimin The origins of Saimin as many parts of Hawaii's Cuisine can be debated, but it had come from the plantation era 1850s. The story goes that plantation laborers of various ethnic backgrounds would meet for a communal meal and throw whatever they had in the pot. It is said the Filipino family brought onions, the Portuguese brought pork, the Chinese brought noodles, the Japanese brought the pot of stock. Variations of Saimin A bowl of saimin consists of several elements: the broth (dashi), the sauce, the noodles, and the toppings. The broth tends to have a mixture of poultry carcasses, meat bones, fish bones, shells, and/or mushrooms. Many variations started off with shellfish of clams, shrimps, or scallops as a bases for the broth. With those who have had allergens to shellfish there have been dashi soups which do not include shellfish. Specific categories broadly describe the basis of the most common flavors. It is said most common because many shops will specialize specifically on a particular saimin-style. Common styles are: alaea, konbu (limu.seaweed), shrimp, beef, and pork. The broth, seasoning, sauce, and noodle types all effected what sort of Saimin a person was eating. Each place would specialize in their Saimin and make sub variants of their saimin as menu items. This would include: shoyu sauce, mustard shoyu, vinegar sauce, were some common selections that were either ordered or made using condiments at a saimin shops table. There are many ways to easily add seasonings to saimin either at home or at the restaurant. Restaurants are also looking at flavorings such as unthickened stew broth that falls under: Beef Curry Stew, Tomato Hawaiian Stew, and Cream Mushroom Stew. Saimin Noodle Types There are even types of saimin based on noodle sizes and richness of the broth. For example Dry Saimin is known for having a much stronger tasting broth than typical light flavored Saimin. On oahu there are Flat Saimin noodles that are known to take in more of the broth from its wideness. And on Kauai there are Fat Noodles (similar to udon size) that were served from out of peoples homes and eventually in a shop. Some recipes for noodles use eggs and some use flours and some replace the noodles for cellophane noodles as an alternative noodle selection. Hawaii Regional Saimin Every island has their own variations of regional saimin as well as their top favorites for types of saimin, but what was once a commonplace recipe has vanished from most families recipe books. Dishes that are unique to certain areas and are different enough and tasty were listed in the highlighted groups of Saimin. Islands are still developing their own regional styles, but none as diverse as the amount of Saimin found on Oahu which was famously known for multiple saimin establishments during the Saimin Golden Age. Family Recipes and the 1960s Gone to the grave with those who departed from the world of the living and taking many of their recipes with them from their homes. So, who holds the secrets? The businesses that still are alive with the dish carrying sale being the most vibrant and the families that have a recipe hidden away somewhere with a story, somewhere through recipe cards, or somewhere with their most elderly and wise of cooks. Documentation has been tricky, since people in the islands were taught to be humble and not bring widespread attention to their families, which is polar opposite of todays social media scene and technology. Elders, Middle Aged, and even youngsters all have a prepared speech to remain anonymous, even more so if they reveal their families way of doing the secret broth. While many Saimin recipes were to remain under lock and key a sense of urgency has happened as the entire interest in Saimin had been in decline from the 90s. When asked, some people said “Because im not one chef or professional saimin maker”, another answer was “It is peaceful when no one bothers you or your family”, or “my mom would roll in her grave if she knew i let out the family recipe, since it was specially made just for our family and no one else”. With the trust of sources being stayed anonymous and no direct profit group for selling the recipes there have been many stories that have emerged from the islands. It can be explained as dishes that had made their mark in the families they were cooked by, but have finally flown the nest for everyone else who lives in Hawaii to see. Old Places and Old Faces Learning from the old stories that some do indeed include recipes are important for preservation and necessary to understand the ingredient limitations of the time period for certain dishes to maintain a taste of the era to respect the old while moving forward with the very close limitations. In regards to Saimin this hits especially hard with knowing that many of the Maui Saimin shops that were really good had shut their doors like: Hanaduda Saimin, House of Saimin, Suda Kihei Store, and The Nagata Store, just to say a few. There was also an urgency from the strength of Ramen shops had in its trendiness taking over the noodle soup wars, so it made an increased need to explore what is left of Saimin before there was no one left to reference from the time period. The Hawaii Soup Noodle Wars Reclaiming the the soup noodle landscape is difficult as delicious soups from all over the world come to compete for the appetites of the kama'aina (residents). Saimin has been the staple dish of the plantation that represented the mixing of cultures along with Hekka and Plate Lunch, but it was a light broth which would become even lighter overtime with its ingredients being less available. Olden days Saimin would use dried scallops, dried shrimp, kombu, and sea salt, and many other combinations of dried ingredients based on the region. The soup is even light than before due to rising costs, so that flavor can not compete when customers want a more deep flavor or strong flavor. These were filled by Pho Noodle Soup for a deeper flavor and Ramen for a stronger flavor. This would begin a war of soup and a journey to the past that would have to uncover how Saimin lost its flavors and what innovations happened from back then to modern day to compete for the contrasting taste of soup noodle eaters. First we can check out the largest competitor in the room which would be Japanese Ramen. Saimin Vs. Ramen What's the difference between Saimin and Ramen? The dashi in Saimin is a little clearer and crisp to taste with a saltiness at the end versus the heavier milky clouds of fatty richness brought by ramen. While being similar in having a soup, noodles, and toppings its no wonder there are comparisons between Saimin’s cousins of Wonton Soup and Ramen, both of which also are inspired or originated by chinese cuisine. Saimin also has its differences in its noodle texture being much more chewy and keeps a separate taste to the soup, beside its ramen noodle counterpart it is clear that the noodles in Ramen become a single flavor of the broth. Other than that it's just a preference of regional ingredient toppings. Which should people choose? With ramen joints being so abundant and taking over the scene with its rich flavor there is no denying its spot in Hawaii, but Saimin in comparison does not seem to have the same tools as Ramen shops which might be one reason for their decline. Luckily cuisines divide the two as different identities, so a preference of Hawaii Cuisine for the meal or Japanese Cuisine would be the main factor. But, if the options of making the most out of the shop experience and menu it would have to go to Ramen for its mixture of items of Stir Fry, Dumplings, Stew, and Noodle Soup versus Saimin which has Noodle Soup and a extremely limited selection of wonton dumpling standing alone and maybe three types of grilled sticks. The Hawaiian Islands vs The Japan Islands The heritage of the people who live on the island is important to note, since even though the noodles of the food industry are at war it doesn’t mean it affects our relationships by ethnicity in the same light. One way of cooking is taking ethnic family history and making it Ethnic Hawaii local food and then taking the second way and making the foods that came out of the ethnic melting pot that is Hawaii Local food that overseas the other way as a branch of local food. Then the next question is finding the belonging of food of the ethnicity local food and then finding out the land is what we have in common and then it makes another layer for a regional type of local food and then to top it off there is the personal histories to the dishes themselves and its ingredient sources have their own stories as well. We all carry our own stories and share the same story by the land, which comes back to the traditional Hawaiian ideas of the Hawaii community to take care of the land and give back as one family. The Ramen and the Pho are ethnic cuisines that can find their way in Hawaii cuisine in its Ethnic local branch and is celebrated as Saimin, but since alot of the foods developed in their native countries Saimin has a lot of development to do to catch up and be competitive for its choice in peoples preferances of where to eat. Menu Designs Growing through Competition The next comparison would bring us to looking at the way menu design and dishes are in the established ethnic shops and see if Saimin can keep up in its selection or speed in the kitchen and speed of customer ordering. Pho Shops there is the Noodle Soup accompanied by finger food Summer Rolls or Fried Egg Rolls and variety of Salads and Entrees that feature Barbequed Meats. Ramen Shops have their Noodle Soup and has finger food dumplings with tempura and a featured stew that is supported by fried rice. Saimin shops have their Noodle Soup with beef sticks being the finger food and fried saimin dishes on the side. What Saimin could do to help its comparison is adding a Stew, adding Dumplings, and keeping the grilled sticks. In Menu designs there are only so many items on Ramen shops that make it fairly easy to make a decision of several specialties of the shop, while Saimin and Pho still have in common the selection of entrees, sides, and sandwiches that overrun the menu with a large number of dishes. This creates less emphasis on the noodle soup with more items and it takes customers more time to decide on what they want to eat. Which just makes them confused or frustrated. Regions of Hawaii vs Regions of Japan One of the secret advantages of Ramen shops is their regional connection of ingredients that are based on the themed Ramen to make different menu depending on the specialty. This too can be taken away from the Ramen Shop in advantages with the exploration of regional Saimins. Which would eventually lead to "Food Tourism" that would involve talking to some of the mom and pop stores that have survived over the years as well as bring up stories from previous legacy family shop owners. Oahu in particular is a hot bed for some of the largest amounts of Saimin development due to the markets that housed dried goods. Many of these were brought in from China, Japan, and other countries, and with so many markets this made it easy to find distributors and people who could deliver such ingredients to saimin shops. The development of Saimin would have seemed to meet its end in the 90s, but recipes continued to be developed luckily to Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement. Farmers Saimin Fights off Pho The Pig and the Lady, would start experimenting with the first coming of Hawaii-Vietnamese cuisine that would make its mark on noodle soups in a big way. It would end up contributing both making Pho Noodles apart of the already diverse noodles in Hawaii and creating a completely alternative scene of noodle dishes that would fuel Saimin makers to compete once again. In the end this created dishes based on this style . Hawaii-Vietnamese Cuisine would blend in french culinary techniques with Chinese and Japanese techniques that is still developing. The origins of this style started with the Le Ohana that started at the farmers markets selling Pho and vigorously training in the art of soup making by travel and research. Those who would try to imitate this broth style with their own local twist would call it "Farmers Saimin". Farmers Saimin developed in homes of those who would save their pho broth from restaurants and eat it with S&S saimin noodle packets at home. The name originates from noodle soups from the farmers market called "Farmers Pho" as made from The Pig and the Lady. While it is still seen as a variation on Pho broth and even has an option of Pho Noodles in peoples pantries it has formed into a regional Hawaii dish. Stewed Saimin Fights against Ramen Another type of growing in popularity homegrown dish that uses saimin noodles to fight the competition is "Stewed Saimin". It is a classic bowl of saimin noodle soup with a table spoon of stew mixed and soup similar ingredients mixed in the broth. There are several theories for the origins of stewed saimin, but it was most likely invented at a curry restaurant in Hawaii imitating Curry Udon. Another story is that it was created on the Big Island during the postwar period to cater to the demand of gravy-flavored and stew like dishes that flavored rice. It is difficult to grasp where it had come from, but it is competing with stronger flavored soup noodle dishes like Ramen. While we do not know what the future holds there is a growing development of stronger flavors. But we do know is that in Saimin shops like Dillingham Saimin (Boulevard Saimin) developing on Oahu are gaining momentum with a deeper dashi broth. And on the Big Island there are some old recipes yet to be uncovered that have its origins in long cooked bones. Maybe Ramens competition is coming sooner than later? Franz Shiro Matsuo
We start from the edge of the water from the stream to the top of the mountain, or the endings that start at the beginnings. So here we are at the roots of the story that was said to have the Saimin that started it all. People who go there will tell you that there are is a feeling that marks a vibe of the Aloha spirit through that splits through time at the establishment of Shiro’s Saimin Haven. Without a second thought it is one of the most welcoming, most humbling, most loving, and most filling places that are on the main road through the middle of Oahus highway. So, what is Shiros and the legacy of the Saimin Haven? I guess this is going to go right in to that, shall we begin? Passing over the beachs and driving towards the mountain side of what some may say is way out to the country. You can’t help but see the plants and the houses while passing the mango trees and slight urban development showing through a post-plantation landscape. Shiros has irrevocably challenged the world of local cuisine that comes from the ownership of his restaurant. He challenged a seemingly impossible task in a wild, yet spiritual way that changed how we eat and cook at home and in restaurants in todays Hawaii by the way of Saimin. He said there is no such word as impossible in his vocabulary and that he wanted to know how to make dreams come true in the way of connecting with peoples hearts. The main thing he wanted to do is feed hungry customers that were seen as dear friends, but secondly he wanted to give them encouragement to becoming a better person through the message to believe. The roots of Matsuo cooking style came from the traditional Local Hawaii Cuisine, before it even had a name. Growing up through the days of the late plantation and hotel growth allowed him to be in the service of communication that creates the environment setting of sharing. When the old ways are boring... it does not always stay that way forever, because the experience of understanding can be one of great change of experience. When I first went with my family as a young boy I did not appreciate the flavors or the sights of outdated eateries and thought that it would be difficult for me to want to go to a Saimin restaurant again. I really was not interested at all in Saimin or this old Shiro Matsuos ideas and creative take on connecting with customers came off as tacky. But the more I read into the poems, the songs, the people, and the way that he approached things and what had been made it changed my perception. I never looked at things that were old as boring ever again. Eating at Shiro’s Saimin Haven was a experience of family valued service of its staff to a time warp of its decor that brings that sense of Ohana into the business setting. It was clear that the old way was not boring. Lets talk about the story of Franz Shiro Matsuo the awarded title of Aloha ambassador and chef of saimin restaurants, and plate lunch huli huli as some of his adventurous businesses. He is a mystery to many, but to those who knew him knows that he had a way of bringing people together like no one else. He and his brothers were Nissei (second generation) in Hawaii that grew up in the neighborhood of Kalihi Aala Park. His father Seiichi had an entertainment business and was an entrepreneur raising his kids in the Japanese camps. His brothers would go off to build the Kokusai Theatre to follow the family business, but Shiro went to the army and found out his love for cooking in 1942-1945. He went on to make his own businesses: The Sheridan Inn, King’s Den, and Fukuju Tei, but none seemed very profitable… so, he eventually found himself working as a instructor for Kapiolani Community College where he would work till he had enough money to open Shiro’s Hula Hula Drive In on debt and credit. After the restaurant grew he moved his restaurant over to Waimalu Shopping Center. The roots of Shiros cooking comes from the neighborhood he grew up in Kalihi Aala Park, known as Hell’s Half Acre from the poor living conditions. The buildings look like they have been there for ages with even the warehouse area has hardly changed over the years. Not quite the place one would go to for a great passion of togetherness and positive creativity. It was near where you could expect possible attacks during wartime and homes had blackout windows, curfew bedtimes, gas masks, and food rations. But around the area was a Aala business boom that catered to the military and some of that boom was saimin stands. While it was the type of area people would like to leave as soon as they could it was that type of environment that allows for the dream of the snack of saimin. Shiro would be apart of this experience and would always remember how families would gather in those days and eat together. This area would breed many other old school saimin shops that would start from Liliha area all the way into Down Town Honolulu. Saimin was not only a way of eating a snack, but it was a reason to come together. Shiros Saimin Haven in Waimalu. The saimin that is from shiro’s are made from scratch from their noodle factory owned by the Matsuo family. Patiently working on dish after dish the passion of family gathering and kindness was brought from individual types of Saimin that started people exploring regionality for the first time with saimin. This all started when Shiro’s turned the noodle soup snack into a meal at his family restaurant with added many toppings and names that eventually led to the Clam Konbu Saimin and Waimalu-Style Saimin (aka. Dondonpa Saimin) as well as Leeward-Style Saimin Noodles. People could be eating the saimin and thinking that it was new because it tasted similar to the shrimp, but without shrimp and with clams instead…Shiro would make hundreds of recipes to elaborate on saimin to be an entire stand alone dish that was given its own place as a whole meal dish. The ingredients that were worked with were available to many others who had access to dried seafood or dried meats to make their own soup, so it was something almost anyone could make. Matched with freshly grilled marinated beef sticks and burgers… it was hard to beat the it as a saimin shop, so many people would come, but shiro wanted more than just money or status. He wanted to inspire people. And he did inspire people, because different families who visited the waimalu establishment would try the different dishes and have people imagining their own creative takes on Saimin. Their toppings on their own regional saimin and became highly imitated by other saimin restaurants. It was a casual place with a family feel, which in turn made the experience concentrate on regionality and the flavor of the food. There were many years that went by the Haven continued to have its repeat customers as a must go place for Hawaii residents for an affordable family meal. Haven continues to be a staple for multiple generations of Hawaii families that bring their keiki, parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and family friends. When people who eat the Matsuo foods they think it's outdated food that its really old and tastes like bad old dishes, but what they do not understand is the direct connection of the professional field that brought over the skills were the plantation cooking in camps, the hotels, and the chefs. Today there are people who continue to cook in the ways of traditional culinary arts... but when they try their hand at cooking local Hawaii food it comes out differently from too much emphasis on how it looks and how much culinary knowledge they have and less on the flavor. Since chefs have forgotten the traditions of dishes like saimin as some forgotten idea it shows in their cooking as a reflection of what they haven’t exposed themselves to. While Shiro might be gone his vision of inspiration, self betterment, and creative cooking will live on. The idea that the importance of the little things in life are observed and experienced through the aloha. The effects of cooking were far beyond his time as his recipes have inspired many people to have their own saimin. He will forever be apart of the birth of regional saimins that create the eating of warm broth and noodles that give people a peace of mind.
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